Cemetery
Memorial Restoration Procedures
The old style 2-4 inch thick stone that is broken in half at the center as shown here:
(This writing has been rendered largely obsolete by the
use of certain approved properly applied epoxy glues, but some principals hold
true. For instance if you wish a better repair glue and pin the stone too, but
your drill holes should be larger than normal leaving space to include the epoxy
around the pin.)
As you can see the task here is to put
the two parts back together so that they appear to be a part of one stone again. In the
process we will need to set the stone upright instead of leaving it in a leaning
position and also bond the two broken parts together. It could
be said at the outset that the stone broke in half due to the thinness of the
stone and because the stone is leaning badly. But the specific cause was probably
the result of being struck by a falling tree or limb or perhaps another reason. Stones that are 6 to 12
inches in thickness of quality Granite rarely break in half unless subject
to very violet circumstances, but this stone is only about 3 inches thick and
made of a form of limestone which is a softer stone.
Older Stones of the nineteenth century were rarely thicker than four inches. While one could simply straighten the base and
place the broken top back on the bottom half that would be a
temporary fix and would result in failure with the slightest vibration. The
solution will need to be addressed from two approaches.
The base must be leveled and maybe set in a 40 lb bag of Quickset Concrete
or an approved mix of about 1,000 PSI 2 parts white Cement type N, Four parts
Hydrated Lime, & 8 Parts Sand all mixed as any other concrete mixed and set below the ground.
The procedures provided for the use if Concrete do not hold the endorsement of the Sons of the Confederate Veterans and other
historical commissions do not endorse the
use of Concrete because of the lack of historical look and other reasons. Also the hardness of
concrete when not used below the frost line can crush the
stone. They and others tend to say just reset the stone upright and pack the
soil around it. Soft Brick braces may be used to help keep the stone upright. At
no time should concrete be set above ground and ideally should be used and
set at least 12 inches below the ground level to lessen the impact of the
differences in temperatures of the concrete and the original stone composition
in the heating and thawing of normal weather patterns.
The two halves must be cleaned at the fracture seam and bonded with the latest efforts
and materials to yield a sustainable upright strength. Here again there is more
the train of thought presented. Some use an Epoxy called **Sikadur 31
(thickest) to the Sikadur 35 (thinnest version) to bond the stone.
But continuing the drilling and pins procedure the tools needed for the above repair are as follows: Carpenter's level, a
shovel and a rake, a stiff plastic bristle brush and maybe some other non-acidic
of alkaline cleaning
supplies, a good quality portable
Hand Drill (or use a drill press if one is available) with a drill depth stop
set at 2 1/4 inches, a minimum of three 5/16" diameter titanium diamond or concrete drill bits, carpenters measuring tape, and a lead pencil
with a sharp point, plastic pail for mixing a 40 lb bag of concrete. Enough
water for one or two 40 lb bags of concrete.
The materials needed are: three tubes of exterior grade epoxy glue, one tube of concrete
bonding cement and sealer for filling the fracture, one or two bags of Quickset
Concrete,
three 5/16" by 4" stainless steel or galvanized steel
pins.
To repair the above stone on site one should remove the top half and set it out of the way
temporarily. The area around the base is raked clean to get at the base and
soil. The soil is pulled back from the base for about a two square foot area or
enough to be able to set the base upright and level. This may require digging
out as much as the top 4" or more of soil with the shovel. When enough soil is removed to straighten up
the base go ahead and stand the base upright & straight taking care not to
stress the base joints by applying too much pressure to the straightening
effort. If the main stone is loose from the base and moves back and forth you
will need to set the main stone into concrete thereby replacing the sloppy base
joint. If the base is tight against the stone and it becomes clear that the stone cannot be straightened by a small
amount of effort then dig out more soil. Repeat this until the base is loosened
enough to be straightened. Now dig out more soil around the base to make a place
for the concrete to bond to the base and increase its size and strength. Next
using the carpenters level check and adjust the
bottom half accordingly to get the stone standing perfectly upright so that it no longer
leans toward the ground. Be sure to check the plumb upright from two corners to
be certain the stone is upright and not leaning back, to the front or to the
side. A bag of quickset concrete is then mixed and poured into the dug out
area around the base to anchor the base and the bottom half of the stone. When finished the soil is raked back
into place to cover the base of the stone as it was before. Wait thirty minutes
until the concrete is set enough to proceed without loosening the stone. Of course one may
need to modify the instruction above for a stone that was set shallow in the
ground. In such a situation set the stone base deeper into the ground than it
was before. At the opposite spectrum when the stone is set abnormally deep
into the ground it may need to be dug up and set in place with less depth.
However, modify your procedures above as needed according to the depth of the
stone. If you remove the stone be sure you line it up in the same place it was
before. Never move a stone without an original drawing of its exact place in the
cemetery even if that is not the place where the stone was originally set. It
would be a disaster to historians and laws may be broken to place Joe Blow's
stone next to John Doe's in error. Old cemeteries rarely have perfect rows for
the graves and memorials. Clustering families in group burials was more
important to our ancestors than perfect order.
Now that we have the base half well anchored in concrete in the ground and
standing upright we must turn our attention to bonding the upper half to the
bottom half at the fracture line. First give the two halves a quick inspection
looking for superficial cracks. If these are found then special attention will
be required for that. For the sake of this discussion we have found the two
halves to be sound and ready to proceed. To work with the stone you will need to clean the fractured surface of both the bottom and top half. Take the brush and
scrub the fractured face of both
pieces
until they are both free of debris and clean enough to set tightly together and support the glues. Use
other cleaning supplies if needed but use no harsh acid or alkaline cleaning
compounds.
Next we will
measure and drill three holes into the face of the fracture of
the base half and three matching holes are drilled into the upper half of the face of the
fracture. The drawing below depicts that process. Afterward the pins are set in place in Epoxy Glue to support the two halves. These three holes
in each half will be 1/4 inches deeper than the length of the pins in this case
2 inches into each stone half. Therefore the hole depth must be 2 1/4 inches.
The holes must match up or the two fracture lines of the stone will not set
together properly. The pins will be bonded into the stone halves with Epoxy glue
to insure a long term outcome. If there is loose slop or the pin depth is not
enough the upper half of the stone
will fall or a large crack will show between the two halves leaving room for future failure. I must add here that
accurately drilling six 2 1/4 inch depth holes with 5/16 bit in hard stone is no
easy feat. A drill press works much better than a hand drill for this
process because the process can be stabilized and set up as a fixture. If it
requires a drill press one would remove the stone from the cemetery. In that
case first put into
place a temporary marker with the vital stone inscription. Afterward one could
proceed to
the site where the drill press is set up. Also before removing the stone from the cemetery one will need to notify the proper
cemetery authorities so that permission may be granted and an accounting for the
whereabouts of the stone is available at all times.
Proceeding as if we are repairing on site the first task in drilling the holes
is to measure and mark the place to drill the three pin holes in the upper
half and lower half.. The two outside pins will be placed two inches from the
outside edge. The other pin will be placed in the center of the fracture. So
take a carpenters measuring tape and measure two inches from the edge of the top
and bottom for both the top half and the lower half. Next take the tape and
measure across the thickness of the stone to get the center of the hole. Mark with the lead pencil the point that is
in the center of the stone fracture but two inches from the edge. For the center
holes measure the width of the stone and mark that point and then center that
point by finding 1/2 of the thickness of the stone. Now measure the last outside
pin hole 2" from that edge and center and mark the point. Do that on the
upper stone half and the lower half. These
pin holes must match up and be the right depth or the top of the stone will not set on the
fracture properly to close up the gap. If one is unsure of the markings a good
way to check that is to break apart an old black or blue ball point pin and
touch the gooey inked end to the marked points of the upper half. Then carefully set
the upper half down straight on the lower half. This should cause the ink from
the upper half to mark the same point on the lower half as your previous marks
there. Be careful with this. If you use too much ink or you do not set the stone
parts together correctly you will smear the ink over the original marked holes
instead of confirming your markings.
Next drill the holes making certain the drill is held steady and in a manner
that will cause the holes to be straight up and down. If you can find a jig
fixture for this in a hardware store this will be easier. Drilling the holes is
probably the most critical task. One error here and the effort will be lost. First set the drill stop
to 2 1/4 inches to get the right depth. After the holes are drilled and the
scrapes are cleaned away it is time to test our fit. Take the pins and set them
into the pinholes into the lower half of the stone. Next take the upper half of
the stone and set that down onto the pins in place much like the drawing above.
The two parts should come together tightly and without sloppiness. If they don't
then you may need to later apply more epoxy if there is too much slack in the sides of the pin
holes. If the hole depth is not proper the two parts will come together leaving a gap. In that case
go back and drill the holes to the proper depth. If the
stone comes together but is off center and the fracture does not match then you
must correct that by making the holes larger in the bottom half. You might
consider using a size larger drill bit to correct that. Now that we have the
two halves fitting together remove the pins and apply the Epoxy glue to the pin holes
in the lower half using about 1/2 tube of glue in each hole. As quickly as possible set the pins
into the holes on the bottom half making certain they are set 2 inches into the
pinholes and not 2 1/4.
Last we will need to apply the bonding cement over the surface of both the
upper fracture and the lower fracture to seal out the water from the break. This
must be done quickly so that the epoxy for the pins is not past its hardening
prime. Next fill the three upper pin holes with epoxy and set the upper part of
the stone on the lower half. Work it down on the lower section making certain
the excess glue is wiped up and does not bleed down on the inscription or face
of the stone.
And viola we have the result shown at left. Well not quite. The image shown at
left is actually a
computer graphic stone restoration of Elizabeth (Fine) Coffee, 1809-1882, wife of
Calvin Coffee. Gilbreath-Morrow Cemetery. The original stone still stands
broken in the cemetery as shown in the first picture above. If you look closely you can see the
imperfections of the computer graphic restoration detail. I have not tackled the
actual repair of this stone because there are so many of these broken stones that this is
just one of many on
my list of future repairs I hope to tackle.
**Suitable commercial substitutes for Epoxies are "Bons One Duropoxi Epoxy" Part A & Part B.
Mixed at 50/50. Tenax DOMA 10 Part A & B Epoxy.